Panagia Grafiotisa

There are two churches overlooking the Grafiotisa Beach. The older one has been reduced to half as the sea works on eroding the underlying cliffs. Even though it is presently no more than a ruin, it is clearly whitewashed and well kept even though the entrance is towards the cliff and therefore not accessible. This is such a stunning site that it has practically become a characteristic landmark of the area.

As for the new church, it is fairly modern and there are bits and pieces of what looks like the vestiges of an ancient monument deposited towards the back. This clearly shows us that the area was obviously inhabited during ancient times.

Grafiotisa Beach

Of all the beaches on Pserimos island, the Grafiotisa Beach is probably the most picturesque as the remains of half of the old church, lying at the edge of the cliff, add to the charm of the place. The sand is white and the red cliffs are really impressive. This is a rather remote beach, as few are those who will actually venture to hike over the cliffs on the relatively small trail leading there from the Harbor. The hike takes roughly half an hour but at a brisk pace you could probably manage it in 20 minutes. Although a number of boats go past as they sail to Pserimos from Kalymnos, there is no sheltered mooring to be found in the area, and seldom do any of them actually stop there. All in all I would say this is the best choice if you want to get away from the crowds and enjoy a beautiful part of the island.

Walking from the Main Harbor to Grafiotisa and back, on the island of Pserimos

The little trail leading to Grafiotisa is somewhat difficult to find. It starts on the left side of Pserimos harbor as you come in but if you ask around you will definitely end up finding it. The view over the Harbor is really fantastic and once you are over the first cliff you will get to admire the arid landscape and the exquisite shoreline as well as parts of the islands of Kos and Kalymnos and of course a full view of the island of Platy. In this post I chose to depict the way back from Grafiotisa to the Harbor as in the late afternoon, having the sun behind me, I was better positioned to take compelling photos. Part of the way is actually paved and looks relatively old reminding me somewhat of the Italian pathway linking Pothia to Vathi on the island of Kalymnos. On the way, there are practically only small dry bushes around and the few scattered trees are really scarce, making the walk somewhat strenuous if you choose to do it under the sun. Be sure to take a lot of water to avoid getting too dehydrated.

Vathi on the island of Pserimos

This is a truly stunning Bay that is sheltered from the wind letting you enjoy to the fullest the clear blue sea and the small stretch of beach. It is just 20 minutes or so away from the Harbor and there are signs clearly indicating the way, so it's really easy to get there although the path becomes rather small once you are past the olive groves.  As you can notice on the pictures there are plenty of boats around, mainly sailing boats coming in for a quick stopover, as their occupants take the time to go for a dip or to grab a bite to eat. It really does get crowded sometimes especially during the summer month's weekends and worst of all the noise can be quite annoying so it's usually better to go there early in the morning or late in the afternoon. As in the case of Marathonda there is debris around but to a lesser extent as I suspect some of the people passing by actually pile them up here and there. There are also a few fish farms, but they are further out and don't really spoil the overall landscape. All in all it is probably the best beach on the island, although it's far from being the most secluded...

Marathonda

Marathonda is a 30 to 45 minute walk away from the Pserimos Harbor. It is a relatively easy stroll as there is a wide dirt road all the way. Theoretically you could go by scooter if you can get your hands on one or on one of the few trucks that can be found on the island. In any case it is overall a very nice route and a great way to get a feel of the island. The Marathonda Beach itself is simply stunning. You can explore the little coves nearby, there are quite a few goat trails that will lead you on your way. The sea is turquoise and you will find it difficult to abstain from relaxing in the water, doing some snorkeling or diving from the little jetty. The only drawback is that there is quite a lot of rubbish amassed on the shoreline, probably brought in by the sea, and that somewhat spoils the overall experience. On the plus side, the Marathonda beach is quite secluded in the sense that very few people will go there even though it is relatively easy to access.

Walking around Pserimos island

Pserimos is a beautiful little island situated close to the island of Kalymnos. There are boats that go there every  day from Kalymnos and since last year there is a boat from Mastichari, on the island of Kos departing, during the summer months, on Saturday and Sunday morning and returning on Saturday and/or Sunday afternoon. You can get a lot covered in one day if you intend to go there for a day trip. On the other hand the ticket from Mastichari one way is just 5 euros, so you can even go there for a change of scenery, a dip in the clear blue waters and some lunch in a somewhat more laid back atmosphere away from all the fuss of the traffic you might find on other islands (there are practically no cars on Pserimos island) although, to be honest, there are a lot of tourists there during the day and it can get crowded. You might need to get away to more remote parts of the island that are seldom reached by the masses. 

During my stay I visited most of the island, with it's rugged terrain full of rocks and scarce vegetation. The enormous olive groves that have been recently created in order to develop the local agricultural sector are probably the only "green" parts of the island. A few people manage to live off the land and a good number of the locals are fishermen with close ties to Kalymnos while the large majority just spends the tourist season on Pserimos catering to the numerous tourists. There are a few secluded beaches here and there that are quite a welcome sight when toiling around in the summer heat: Marathonda Beach, Grafiotissa Beach and Vathy, just to name  a few. I will be getting into more details in posts specifically dedicated to these beaches. Other than that, I would recommend that you equip yourself with loads of water and snacks if you wander off, as there are none to be found away from the Main Harbor. You will get to see a few churches, some local fauna such as donkeys, sheep, goats, a number of beehives scattered here and there, some springs and some wells but mostly you will notice the rocky mountainous terrain and the desolation on the outer edges with the exception of the odd goat that might be struggling along, coupled to the astonishing little coves and beaches that will amaze you and hopefully let you enjoy a refreshing swim in the cool pure waters of the Mediterranean.